'Mary Gilmore (born Cameron) was made a Dame of the British Empire in 1937 for her contribution to Australian literature and social reform… but she also participated in one of the most bizarre episodes of Australian social history, when in 1895 she set sail for Paraguay. Nueva Australia was the bold name of the settlement which Gilmore's friend, the British socialist journalist and autocrat William Lane, founded on a plot of Paraguayan jungle in 1893… The utopian experiment was conceived as teetotal and racially pure, but within a few months the Nueva Australians had begun to consort and drink with the local women. Angry and disillusioned, Lane marshalled sixty-three of his most ardent supporters and established another, even more isolated utopian village, Colonia Cosme. It was here that Mary Cameron arrived on horseback and unpacked her trunk. She was thirty, single and was hoping to marry Lane's lieutenant, with whom she had struck up a friendship in Sydney. That he was barely civil towards her must have been more than dispiriting.
Anne Whitehead has chronicled the history of this and similar settlements in her earlier Paradise Mislaid: In Search of the Australian Tribe of Paraguay (1998), and says little about them here beyond cataloguing basic facts. In Bluestocking in Patagonia she focuses on the two years that Mary spent trying to leave South America and return home, after Lane had turned his back on the second colony. Not long after arriving in Paraguay, she married William Gilmore, a good-natured, illiterate sheep-shearer, with whom she had a son, Billy, and together all three managed to reach Argentina in search of work on its vast estancias. Whitehead's is a slender story, but by assiduously following in her subject's footsteps she fleshes it out with an informed and lively account of her own travels. Patagonia is a rich source of curious incidents and eccentric people, and Whitehead makes the most of these, describing the Welsh towns of Trelew and Puerto Madryn, where Taffs still sing contentedly and serve bara brith in tourist tea shops; a robbery pulled off by Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid; Charles Darwin's forays from the Beagle; W.H. Hudson's delight in the birds of the region, and the search for the giant sloth carried out by Mr Hesketh Prichard of the Daily Express . She mentions Bruce Chatwin, who turned up unannounced at the great estancia of Killik Aike, where the Gilmores had lived for some months, only to be sent away "with a flea in his ear" by its current owners. Mary Gilmore left Killik Aike abruptly too, after she had befriended a young peon, a transgression for any woman, made worse because Mary was white.
Gilmore weathered the unrest of war between Argentina and Chile, though her nerves and her health had begun to fail. Whitehead quotes extensively from her letters to William, who had remained at Killik Aike while she left with Billy to teach English in the frontier town of Rio Gallegos. These letters reflect a courageous, resourceful and strong-willed woman. The Gilmores eventually returned to Australia, and set up home in rural Victoria. William found work as an itinerant labourer, but Mary was miserable. In 1910 she moved to Sydney and, finally, was able to devote herself to her poetry, as well as to burn up her energies in social causes, becoming an important early critic of Australia's treatment of Aboriginals. "Yea! I have lived" was how she began one poem, and reading Anne Whitehead's spry account of her life, it is hard not to agree.'